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super_marcy


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#27158 05-11-2009 GMT-5 hours    
Hello everybody.
I'm building the Airfix DC-10 and I stuck on one detail work. When I stick the engines on the wing the pilons look very bad. The Engine is hanging to far away from the wing. Is there anyone who correctet this deformity and wants to tell me how?

Marcel

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Jetplane


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#27160 05-11-2009 GMT-5 hours    
Apart from those engines pylons hanging low..there's nothing fancy about Airfix DC-10 except the nose..
which is more correctly shaped than Revell's
...But overall Revell DC-10 is much better in most areas.

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Loud707


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#27163 05-11-2009 GMT-5 hours    
I'm surprised an aftermarket resin parts maker hasn't supplied the engine/pylon combo to correct this Airfix DC-10 engine droop problem, as popular as the DC-10 is among model builders. I cut the airfix pylons with a saw, but never could live with the look of the fix. That model went in the garbage. I'm going to give the Revell a try here soon.

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super_marcy


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#27164 05-11-2009 GMT-5 hours    
Hm,
I had try to build the Revell DC-10 years ago and was very impatient with it. The wing root & wing fuselage joing is unsuccessful and a main problem I can remember was that the Fuselage is very thin on the bottom so that the glue couldn't bond the two halfes stable. The third mistake I remember is that the engines look very thick from the front. And you only get the old engines with the revell kit. But I can't talk about the result of the built kit because I stopped building it because of the problems I had. Maybe it is a nice model.


Marcel

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skippiebg


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#27165 05-11-2009 GMT-5 hours    
I love the Ten and the Revell wins on "finesse" over Airfix (except for that nose). But it is FLIMSY!

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moerush04


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#27166 05-11-2009 GMT-5 hours    
I remember about a year ago there was a long discussion as to which kit was more accurate. And the best answer was to aggressively mix both kits. If I recall correctly the nose of the airfix was more accurate than the Revell but still needed some touching up. The engines and tail on the airfix 10 were more accurate though the pylons needed to be shaved down. I would also recommend shaving the pylon mounts on the wing too. The fan spinner on the Airfix 10 was better. I think it was also concluded that the fuselage of the Revell kit was better but the wing fuse fairing needed work. I could be wrong as I said before it was a while ago. I am sure someone will come and prove me I am 100% wrong but I hope this can help answer your question.

Dan

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#27167 05-12-2009 GMT-5 hours    
I have a Revell KC-10 and it looks better than Airfix except the nose...which is not
very hard to correct.

You get less work on the Revell's trying to make it looks like a real-10
than Airfix..
As for the wing mounted-engines I would use spares from unbuild-kit or a resin set.

Stay tuned I'll be working on the -10 soon..


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Clint69


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#27176 05-12-2009 GMT-5 hours    
I usually make a straight front to back cut on the top of the Airfix DC10 pylons, about 1/4 of an inch if I remember correctly. The Revell 747-400 kit is a bigger offender in this area, if assembled without corrections the inboard nose cowls are about a scale six inches off the ground. I prefer the Airfix DC10 to the Revell.

Clint Groves

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bugs3144


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#27179 05-13-2009 GMT-5 hours    
If Clint says the Airfix kit is better, listen to him. Been round a long time like the rest of us.

Frank
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Tango-Bravo


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#27180 05-13-2009 GMT-5 hours    
Quote
bugs3144 :
If Clint says the Airfix kit is better, listen to him. Been round a long time like the rest of us.



To me, the question of "which kit is better?" comes down to which DC-10 variant one wishes to build. If it's a DC-10-10, Revell is the way to go; for a -30, better to go with the Airfix kit. Otherwise, both kits are more or less equally flawed...although once assembled, painted and decaled, both kits look very much like... 1:144 replicas of DC-10s.

As for my own preference between the kits...it's neither. When building DC-10s I decided many years ago to diversify into 1:200 scale... same when building other widebody types, although, unfortunately, Hasegawa DC-10, L-1011, and 747-100/-200 kits have become as challenging to find as their Revell and Airfix 1:144 counterparts...if not more so.

Todd

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SAK


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#27365 05-22-2009 GMT-5 hours    
Hallo Marcel,
Du musst bei der Triebwerksaufhaengung der Airfix DC-10 den oberen vorderen Teil abschleifen oder mit einem scharfen Cuttermesser abtragen bis die Triebwerksgondeln gerade unter der Tragflaeche haengen.
Des weiteren ist eigentlich der Winkel der Cockpitscheibe im vorderen Bereich falsch da viel zu schraeg.
Dann stimmt die Hoehe der Fenterreihe nicht,sie ist im Modell in Rumpfmitte angeordnet und somit falsch und zu niedrig!
Die obere Fensterkante muss mit der Mitte des Hoehenleitwerkes abschliessen.
Das sind die Fehler am Modell die mir jetzt so einfallen.
Schoenes Wochenende,
Sascha.

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the PRIDEbird


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#28226 07-06-2009 GMT-5 hours    
What's about the AURORA DC-10 as compared with REVELL and AIRFIX? Better than AIRFIX but below REVELL? The same as REVELL? Below AIRFIX? Did anyone built an AURORA DC-10?
AURORA's Boeing-747 is a nightmare but have no informations about the DC-10 kit...

Sven

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#28227 07-06-2009 GMT-5 hours    
The Aurora and Monogram (I think same mould) are pure garbage, the only thing those kits have going for them is the cool artwork on the box.

Keep em separated!
Steve

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#28229 07-07-2009 GMT-5 hours    
Make sure that you use the engine fans and spinners from the Airfix kits. Just want to recap that those are more accurate, and I use them with Revell or the A300 engines w/ adjustments.

On Arrival (1/144 scale):

EK 777-300ER
KE 747-400
AC A321-200
SQ A380-800
BA 747-400

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#28232 07-07-2009 GMT-5 hours    
Interestingly, I have an early engineering drawing of the DC-10, and many of the things that look wrong on the Aurora/Monogram kit (engines, nose, etc) are in alignment with this early concept drawing. The moulds were probably made before ship one took shape, I would guess.

Cheers,

Dan

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In Progress: Welsh 1/72 B-737-800 (Southwest), Anigrand 1/72 DC-10-10 (Laker), Doyusha 1/100 DC-8-62 (United Delivery), Doyusha 1/100 B-767 (United)

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#28234 07-07-2009 GMT-5 hours    
Quote
Redbelliedjet :
Interestingly, I have an early engineering drawing of the DC-10, and many of the things that look wrong on the Aurora/Monogram kit (engines, nose, etc) are in alignment with this early concept drawing. The moulds were probably made before ship one took shape, I would guess.

Cheers,

Dan



Even with that said, the wings are just awful. I remember building one when I was maybe 11 and was disgusted that they did not have that "crank". What I mean by that is the inboard rear section with the flaps, how it angles down from the rest of the wing. I know my technical jargon is not up to speed, but hopefully y'all know what I mean.

Keep em separated!
Steve

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#28235 07-07-2009 GMT-5 hours    
Quote
DullesFlyer :
Make sure that you use the engine fans and spinners from the Airfix kits. Just want to recap that those are more accurate, and I use them with Revell or the A300 engines w/ adjustments.



I like my solution!




Even if this picture is of an A310, in my Western gallery I have a DC-10 done with the blades.

Keep em separated!
Steve

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Luca67


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#28237 07-07-2009 GMT-5 hours    
Hi everybody,

as announced on the website, Bra.Z Model is working to release the engines GE CF-6 50 for the DC 10 - 30. I have an Airfix kit ready, so let's wait.

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super_marcy


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#28238 07-07-2009 GMT-5 hours    
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Luca67 :
Hi everybody,

as announced on the website, Bra.Z Model is working to release the engines GE CF-6 50 for the DC 10 - 30. I have an Airfix kit ready, so let's wait.




Yes, this announcement has a jubilee of 10 years (or longer?)

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#28239 07-07-2009 GMT-5 hours    
personally I lean towards the airfix kit tho' as said, both have flaws.
Since the question is about the airfix kit, the fix for the engines is simple -
just cut or sand off the plinths on the wings, do a little bit of sanding to the pylons so they fit neatly and they will look ok and not sit on the ground.
The cabin windows on the airfix kit are too low - most people fill them anyway and use decals so its not an issue. If you want clear windows then you have a big problem.
Other than that, once built it looks like a model of a DC10

It then depends on how much of a detail freak you are.....

when I grow up I want to be like me

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#28279 07-09-2009 GMT-5 hours    
As I remember, in Airfix kit there was a big problem fitting the windshield into its opening. Their shapes differ strongly and gaps appear in many sections.

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#28283 07-09-2009 GMT-5 hours    
Everytime I see the topic of "how can I correct the Airfix (or Revell) DC-10 kit?" ...which seems to be a regularly recurring discussion... I cringe (in a manner of speaking) to hear of all the frustrations and work that go into making either of the 1/144 DC-10 kits into even a so-so replica of the real thing...when there is an alternative for building an outstanding DC-10-30 or -40 replica OOB, with none of the fuss, in the form of the Hasegawa kit. Sure it's 1/200 scale so it may seem way outside the proverbial box for some 1/144 afficianados ...however, if a great looking DC-10-30 (or -40) is the objective, one can do no better than the Hasegawa '10. Even with countless hours of modification work on the Airfix or Revell DC-10 kits, I can say with confidence that the end result will be of lesser accuracy in appearance than a Hasegawa DC-10 built OOB.

Todd

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#28291 07-10-2009 GMT-5 hours    
Quote
Tango-Bravo :
Everytime I see the topic of "how can I correct the Airfix (or Revell) DC-10 kit?" ...which seems to be a regularly recurring discussion... I cringe (in a manner of speaking) to hear of all the frustrations and work that go into making either of the 1/144 DC-10 kits into even a so-so replica of the real thing...when there is an alternative for building an outstanding DC-10-30 or -40 replica OOB, with none of the fuss, in the form of the Hasegawa kit. Sure it's 1/200 scale so it may seem way outside the proverbial box for some 1/144 afficianados ...however, if a great looking DC-10-30 (or -40) is the objective, one can do no better than the Hasegawa '10. Even with countless hours of modification work on the Airfix or Revell DC-10 kits, I can say with confidence that the end result will be of lesser accuracy in appearance than a Hasegawa DC-10 built OOB.

Todd



Which is OK for some, but those little guys just look out of place with the rest. Then of course there is trying to explain to your wife, or friends how big that plane is compared to the others on your shelf. But they only know that a "T" tail is an MD-80 (and you gave up trying to teach the 727, DC-9, F28, F100 etc)

Keep em separated!
Steve

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#28292 07-10-2009 GMT-5 hours    
Quote
XRadar :
Quote
Tango-Bravo :
Everytime I see the topic of "how can I correct the Airfix (or Revell) DC-10 kit?" ...which seems to be a regularly recurring discussion... I cringe (in a manner of speaking) to hear of all the frustrations and work that go into making either of the 1/144 DC-10 kits into even a so-so replica of the real thing...when there is an alternative for building an outstanding DC-10-30 or -40 replica OOB, with none of the fuss, in the form of the Hasegawa kit. Sure it's 1/200 scale so it may seem way outside the proverbial box for some 1/144 afficianados ...however, if a great looking DC-10-30 (or -40) is the objective, one can do no better than the Hasegawa '10. Even with countless hours of modification work on the Airfix or Revell DC-10 kits, I can say with confidence that the end result will be of lesser accuracy in appearance than a Hasegawa DC-10 built OOB.

Todd



Which is OK for some, but those little guys just look out of place with the rest. Then of course there is trying to explain to your wife, or friends how big that plane is compared to the others on your shelf. But they only know that a "T" tail is an MD-80 (and you gave up trying to teach the 727, DC-9, F28, F100 etc)



I'm one of the biggest fans of Hasagawa's little gems you could wish for.
But the question wasnt about 1/200 scale Hasagawa kits...the question was about the 1/144 scale DC10's.
And yes I agree with all the above comments, although I still say that either Revell or Airfix DC10 kits will still look like a DC10 when they're done. Ok, they wont be totally accurate in every area uinless you do some serious extra work but even if you dont, they still look like DC10's.

when I grow up I want to be like me

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