> 1 <
| Author | Message |
gmat![]() Members Add As Buddy Posts: 27
Location: Tokyo
Occupation: teacher
Age:
|
#43462 07-02-2012 GMT-5 hours |
|
Anyone know how or where to shorten the Hasegawa DC-10-30 wings by 10 scale feet to make a DC-10-10 wing? Thank you for any help. Best wishes, Grant |
| Author | Message |
skippiebg![]() Contributors Add As Buddy Posts: 713
Location: Sofia
Occupation: interpreter and translator
Age: 56
|
#43463 07-02-2012 GMT-5 hours |
|
Remove the excess at the tips |
| Author | Message |
gmat![]() Members Add As Buddy Posts: 27
Location: Tokyo
Occupation: teacher
Age:
|
#43464 07-02-2012 GMT-5 hours |
|
Thanks Skippiebg, I had read this from the Dave Hinton article on DC-10/MD-11 differences. "Also introduces the 10-foot greater wingspan. The greater wingspan is very difficult to see, since it's as if the entire wing was simply stretched at the tip. There's no obvious change. Sweep and taper are unchanged from the -10's wing. (No kink, unlike most every other wing change in airliner history). Tip looks the same because the outboard aileron was extended as well. The only way to really tell is to get a -10 and a -20/30/40 side-by side to compare aileron span. Will add a wingtip-comparison photo if I ever find a good one." Does it mean that I should cut off about 2mm and rescribe the ailerons about 2mm inwards to make them shorter? Thanks again, Grant |
| Author | Message |
skippiebg![]() Contributors Add As Buddy Posts: 713
Location: Sofia
Occupation: interpreter and translator
Age: 56
|
#43465 07-02-2012 GMT-5 hours |
|
10ft is 3.05m or 1.525cm (say, 3/5ths in.) in 1/200 scale, meaning half of that (7.5mm or say 3/10ths in.) off each wingtip. Then simply file or sand the new tip a tad to round it off, and restore the scribe line between aileron and tip which will be lost when removing the original wingtip (which, indeed, is about 2mm in from the tip). Happy modification! |
| Author | Message |
gmat![]() Members Add As Buddy Posts: 27
Location: Tokyo
Occupation: teacher
Age:
|
#43466 07-02-2012 GMT-5 hours |
|
Skippiebg, Thank you very much. Best wishes, Grant |
| Author | Message |
skippiebg![]() Contributors Add As Buddy Posts: 713
Location: Sofia
Occupation: interpreter and translator
Age: 56
|
#43468 07-02-2012 GMT-5 hours |
|
Forgot to mention one thing which you would have seen anyway: the wingtip trailing (rear) edge has a prominent navigation light cluster on it. It looks like two battery torches side by side and projects somewhat to the rear of the wing trailing edge. By cutting off the wing tip, you would lose Hasegawa's nice representation of the cluster. This means you would need to reshape the cut-off wing to represent the lights, possibly by gluing on the cut-off one, or by using strips of plastic. This can be a somewhat tricky job, as I recall from doing it myself some years back... I'd probably choose to insert polystyrene rod into the wing somehow, as things glued onto the sharp rear edge tend to come off.
|
| Author | Message |
gmat![]() Members Add As Buddy Posts: 27
Location: Tokyo
Occupation: teacher
Age:
|
#43469 07-02-2012 GMT-5 hours |
|
Skippiebg, Thanks, I had thought about saving the tip and reusing it. The rods or perhaps wire, sound like a good idea. Thanks for it. There isn't much detail on the tip. I wouldn't have known about the lights until you mentioned it. Right now things are on hold until I get better at filling in the windows. My first attempts with super glue didn't work. Twice. Perhaps I'll try cutting out the windows and replacing it with a strip. Practiced on the DC-10 before working on the Hasegawa B747-400. That's my first priority right now. I'll probably try again with super glue on a B737-200 kit. I have plenty of those. This time, I'll try filling the holes a thin layer at a time. But what bothers me is that when I removed the scotch tape, the outside of the filled windows still wasn't flush. Thank you again. Best wishes, Grant |
| Author | Message |
gjake![]() Contributors Add As Buddy Posts: 131
Location: Mobile, AL
Occupation: HydroMet Techincian
Age:
|
#43476 07-03-2012 GMT-5 hours |
|
Grant, Here's another approach; one I used on my Hasegawa DC-9 conversion found in the articles section. Remove the kit wingtip at the raised panel line nearest the aeileron, cut off the appropriate amount, then re attach the wingtip alligned with the trailing edge of the wing. Build up the leading edge with super glue and reshape, then rescribe the necessary leading edge and aeileron lines. This will preserve the trailing edge wingtip navigation lights mentioned above. Gene MOB |
| Author | Message |
gmat![]() Members Add As Buddy Posts: 27
Location: Tokyo
Occupation: teacher
Age:
|
#43482 07-03-2012 GMT-5 hours |
|
gjake, Thank you for the advice. It sounds very good. Best wishes, Grant |
| Author | Message |
scotty100368![]() Members ![]() Add As Buddy Posts: 159
Location: Queanbeyan
Occupation: YSCB ramp
Age: 45
|
#43488 07-03-2012 GMT-5 hours |
|
For a complete conversion back to a series 10: 1. reduce the wingspan - already discussed 2. omit the centre main landing gear - just fill in the hole 3. reduce the length of the wing-to-body fairing on the rear of the fuselage sides, shown on the Revell example below: ![]() Cheers! Scott YSCB/CBR |
| Author | Message |
gmat![]() Members Add As Buddy Posts: 27
Location: Tokyo
Occupation: teacher
Age:
|
#43489 07-03-2012 GMT-5 hours |
|
Thank you, Scott. Fortunately it will eventually become the Air Siam DC-10-10, which from photos, had the longer fairing. Saves me some work. I was fortunate in seeing the Air Siam DC-10 and taking a few pictures when it passed through Hawaii in the early 70s. The blue fuselage was one of my favorites. Decals might be adapted from the TwoSix decal sheet, but the 'Thailand's First DC-10' might be a problem. It's in white. Thank you for your help. Best wishes, Grant |
| Author | Message |
scotty100368![]() Members ![]() Add As Buddy Posts: 159
Location: Queanbeyan
Occupation: YSCB ramp
Age: 45
|
#43492 07-04-2012 GMT-5 hours |
|
Grant, Quote That's because the sole DC-10 that Air Siam operated (HS-VGE) was a series 30 not a 10 ! Proof here: http://www.airliners.net/photo/Air-Siam/McDonnell-Douglas-DC-10-30/0435435/L http://www.airliners.net/photo/Air-Siam/McDonnell-Douglas-DC-10-30/0281052/L http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air_Siam http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ccq5-47AL4A So after all this chatting, no kit modifications are needed whatsoever. Scott. |
| Author | Message |
gmat![]() Members Add As Buddy Posts: 27
Location: Tokyo
Occupation: teacher
Age:
|
#43493 07-04-2012 GMT-5 hours |
|
Thanks Scotty100368. Don't know what made my brain wires mix up like that as when I checked my file it had -30. Best wishes, Grant |
| Author | Message |
aro757![]() Administrators ![]() Add As Buddy Posts: 1386
Location: San Ramon, CA
Occupation: Webmaster
Age:
|
#43494 07-04-2012 GMT-5 hours |
|
BTW, the wing to body fairing is not 100% indicative if it's a -10 or -30. There are some -10s which have the longer fairing at the end, and some that even have the most recent one with the long fairing at the end AND the big round section at the front, like the MD-11. So keep that in mind.
Regards, |
| Author | Message |
gmat![]() Members Add As Buddy Posts: 27
Location: Tokyo
Occupation: teacher
Age:
|
#43496 07-04-2012 GMT-5 hours |
|
Thank you, aro757, I'll keep that in mind. Would that be a very late production -10 or is there another reason to have the forward fairing on a -10? Best wishes, Grant |
| Author | Message |
NX28388![]() Contributors Add As Buddy Posts: 113
Location:
Occupation: Professional speller
Age:
|
#43502 07-05-2012 GMT-5 hours |
|
Also bear in mind that in pictures of a DC-10 with the gear deployed, absence of a centerline main gear strut is no sure indication it's a Series 10/15 aircraft. The centerline main gear on the -30/-40 aircraft can be kept retracted if it's not needed. From 15 years of studying the DC-10 family up close I can safely say the only way of building a reasonably accurate model is to choose one particular aircraft, choose the time period you wish to depict, research the daylights out of it and gather all the pictures you can. Fifteen years in I'm still finding subtleties about that airplane and learning things I didn't know about it. Fly Alaska's first airline. Wien Air Alaska. |
| Author | Message |
gmat![]() Members Add As Buddy Posts: 27
Location: Tokyo
Occupation: teacher
Age:
|
#43503 07-05-2012 GMT-5 hours |
|
Thank you NX28388, When I start on the Air Siam build, using another set of fuselages, I'll ask for more help. I don't think that there will be any surprises with an Air Siam DC-10-30. Right now, the scotch tape and CA effort seems to be better the second time around. I went straight and used the 747-400 kit. I also picked up an older Hasegawa Qantas B767-300 at Leonardos in Akihabara on the way back from a lesson. Best wishes, Grant |
| Author | Message |
waltmertins![]() Upper Deck Member ![]() Add As Buddy Posts: 540
Location:
Occupation:
Age:
|
#43504 07-05-2012 GMT-5 hours
|
|
WOW!!!!! Has it really been that long since you(NX28388) started working on that resin nose correction for the DC-10? Either time is going fast or I just can remember how fast its going! Walter |
| Author | Message |
NX28388![]() Contributors Add As Buddy Posts: 113
Location:
Occupation: Professional speller
Age:
|
#43508 07-05-2012 GMT-5 hours |
|
Walter: Hard as it is to believe, it's been that long. It simultaneously feels like it was only yesterday, and a hundred years ago. Fly Alaska's first airline. Wien Air Alaska. |
> 1 <












