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      Gus


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      Post #67130, posted on 05-02-2017 GMT-5 hours    
      Hi, I would like to know if anybody could advise me how to use F-DCAL decals. They are very thin and break easily.
      Thanks Gus

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      lichtjahre


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      Post #67131, posted on 05-02-2017 GMT-5 hours    
      Hi Gus,
      first of all F-DCAL, as many other decal providers, run two different lines of decals.
      The screen printed ones rarely to never produce problems.
      The laser ones, and I guess you refer to these, can indeed be brittle and they can scratch easily as well.
      Another problem is that they can only be applied onto white surfaces and must never overlap each other.
      Its always a good idea to seal them before applying. Just spray over some thin mists of your favorite clear coating
      before you apply them. If they still break up, our surgery skills are required including good nerves.


      Cheers and good success,
      Christian

      Christian Klepp
      Lightyears Landscape Photography
      Where Geoscience Meets Art
      www.christianklepp.com

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      Gus


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      Post #67132, posted on 05-02-2017 GMT-5 hours    
      Thanks Christian, will give it a try !!
      Cheers
      Gus

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      Redbelliedjet


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      Post #67155, posted on 05-04-2017 GMT-5 hours    
      Hi Gus,

      I just happened to be applying a F-DCAL set to my HpH 1/72 Tupolev Tu-154M last night. The decals worked very well with a few procedural adjustments. I clear coated the decals with Model Master Clear Lacquer before beginning. I suspect that most of the issue is getting the decals to release properly from the paper. I had the best results from letting the decals soak for about 3-4 minutes. Then, I gently applied sliding pressure to the decal. If gentle pressure didn't do the trick, I would let it soak for another minute or two. Once it was moving freely on the film, I re-dipped the decal in the water prior to applying it to the model. This allowed it to be adjusted on the model for perfect positioning. Without the "double dip," the decal would bond to the model surface before I could get it its final position. Philippe makes an excellent product that works well, but they do take a different technique to avoid damaging the decals.



      With most decals, this would be a bad Idea, but with the extended soaking time, I had multiple decals in the water at once, which cut down on waiting time between decals.

      I hope that helps....

      Cheers,

      Dan Dornseif IPMS# 51664

      "Hold on, we're goin' for broke!"
      -Joe Patroni

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      Gus


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      Post #67591, posted on 06-29-2017 GMT-5 hours    
      Hi thanks for your message which I read only today. Going to work on the FDCAL SAS Caravelle decals now.
      Cheers, Gus

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      dave6376


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      Post #67592, posted on 06-30-2017 GMT-5 hours    
      I respectfully disagree with Christian when he says F-DCAL's screen-printed decals "rarely to never produce problems."

      I have been a customer of F-DCAL since they started business and I would much rather use their laser decals than their screen printed ones. At the moment I am trying to apply their screen-printed SAS decals (sheet FDS14037) to a Roden DC-6 and it is an absolute nightmare. The decals tend to stick immovably wherever they touch the model and break into pieces at the slightest provocation. I had similar problems a few years ago with a Pakistan International B777 but I hoped things had improved - clearly I was wrong. I'm going to have to get a second sheet and coat it with Microscale Liquid Decal Film to make the decals useable, something which I really resent.

      I've never had any serious problems with F-DCAL's laser decals and I'll continue to buy them but I'm finished with the screen printed version.

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      Jennings


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      Post #67593, posted on 06-30-2017 GMT-5 hours    
      F-DCAL silkscreen decals are printed by the same printer who does my decals (and who has done so for many years). He also prints a lot of other aftermarket decals on the market. I've never heard of anyone having problems like you describe. I'm not saying you didn't have the problem, I'm saying it's not something that's widespread. I can't tell you why you had such a problem, but I can tell you that if you have that problem with any of my decals, please let me know so we can attempt to do something about it.

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      Flaptrack


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      Post #74102, posted on 12-23-2019 GMT-5 hours    
      I have quite a different issue with F-DCALs Laser Decals.
      First, as mentioned before, they take ages to come off the carrer film, once they move, no problems applying them or moving them on the model. BUT: they are so stiff and thick that they simply dont conform to any panel line or curved part, tried differnt softening solutions, nothing worked so far (allthough advertised on F-DCALs website). Anyone an idea how to bend this stuff around round parts?

      Atari

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      EAL Lover


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      Post #74103, posted on 12-23-2019 GMT-5 hours    
      I have not used any F-DCAL decals yet have several in an sealed box for future projects.

      Out of curiosity, why can't the laser-printed variety be used on anything other than white and why can't they be overlapped?

      Thank you in advance and happy holidays to all.

      Jay
      KVGT / KLAS

      Keeping the pointy end up and forward....

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      dave6376


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      Post #74104, posted on 12-23-2019 GMT-5 hours    
      Laser printed decals are translucent, it's the nature of the process.

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      Stevej


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      Post #74168, posted on 01-05-2020 GMT-5 hours    
      Quote
      Flaptrack :
      I have quite a different issue with F-DCALs Laser Decals.
      First, as mentioned before, they take ages to come off the carrer film, once they move, no problems applying them or moving them on the model. BUT: they are so stiff and thick that they simply dont conform to any panel line or curved part, tried differnt softening solutions, nothing worked so far (allthough advertised on F-DCALs website). Anyone an idea how to bend this stuff around round parts?



      Try hot water

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      Jennings


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      Post #74169, posted on 01-06-2020 GMT-5 hours    
      Quote
      dave6376 :
      Laser printed decals are translucent, it's the nature of the process.



      Actually they’re transparent. Like offset CMYK printing, lasers and ink jets use transparent inks or toners mixed together to create different colors. You need the white background to make it work.

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      dave6376


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      Post #74170, posted on 01-06-2020 GMT-5 hours    
      Quote
      Jennings :
      Quote
      dave6376 :
      Laser printed decals are translucent, it's the nature of the process.



      Actually they’re transparent. Like offset CMYK printing, lasers and ink jets use transparent inks or toners mixed together to create different colors. You need the white background to make it work.



      Really? That may be the case in American English (which I don't speak and regularly fail to understand) but in British English they are translucent since they do not allow all the light to pass through, same as stained glass.

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      Jennings


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      Post #74171, posted on 01-06-2020 GMT-5 hours    
      No, I’m basing that on having worked in the print industry.

      Regardless, it’s irrelevant to the subject at hand.

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      Louis


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      Post #74182, posted on 01-07-2020 GMT-5 hours    
      Hi all,

      Moving decals on the surface of the model is easier when you add a drop of detergent to the water, This might prevent decals sticking to the surface and breaking up.
      This is particularly useful if the decal tends to suck itself in after it comes into contact with the surface.

      Regards,
      Louis.

      I am one of the three 'crew members' of IPMS The Netherlands 'SIG Airliners & Civil Aviation'.

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      pinky coffeeboat


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      Post #74183, posted on 01-07-2020 GMT-5 hours    
      And saliva helps too but I prefer washing up liquid!

      Jeff

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      Louis


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      Post #74184, posted on 01-08-2020 GMT-5 hours    
      You are right Jeff, with 'detergent' I meant to say 'washing up liquid'.

      Regards,
      Louis.

      I am one of the three 'crew members' of IPMS The Netherlands 'SIG Airliners & Civil Aviation'.

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      Tango-Bravo


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      Post #74197, posted on 01-13-2020 GMT-5 hours    
      Quote
      Stevej :
      Quote
      Flaptrack :
      I have quite a different issue with F-DCALs Laser Decals.
      ...they are so stiff and thick that they simply dont conform to any panel line or curved part, tried differnt softening solutions, nothing worked so far (allthough advertised on F-DCALs website). Anyone an idea how to bend this stuff around round parts?



      Try hot water



      In addition to using hot distilled water (heated in microwave oven) I have obtained good results with hand-held hair dryer (borrowed from my wife) in getting decals to conform to rounded/'wrap-around' surfaces and panel lines, etc. Best to use hair dryer on low fan speed setting and aim air flow directly over decal at 90-degree angle to avoid lifting edges of decal and use sparingly to avoid overheating decal to a point where it seems to begin to melt.

      Todd
      PHX

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      radioguy


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      Post #74198, posted on 01-13-2020 GMT-5 hours    
      Agree with Todd about the heat. Hair dryer is always at the ready, and a cup
      warmer sits on my bench to keep the water hot. Not all decal stock reacts to
      solvents/softeners. They ALL seem to react to heat.

      Alan Aronoff
      CYUL