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      Aeyb701


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      Post #72662, posted on 06-11-2019 GMT-5 hours    
      Hello to everyone.

      I wonder how best to replicate the antennas on my Heller Pan Am L749 Constellation.

      First, the kit masts broke off prior to assembly, and I didnít think they were sturdy anyway. Is there some material I could use that would
      Look decent yet be strong enough to bear the tension of thread held taut enough to not sag? Brass wire perhaps?

      Second is the rigging itself: I canít seem to find pictures or diagrams on line easily that show what antenna goes where. Iíve seen some modellers place lines from the main mast to all three fins and other articles have said just the centre and copilotís side rudders. Then there are the one or two that run underneath below the forward fuselage. Iíd appreciate any input on that, ie what others have done or references to online links.

      Thanks very much.

      Jon Archibald,
      Peterborough Ontario Canada

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      Challenger350Pilot


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      Post #72664, posted on 06-11-2019 GMT-5 hours    
      Hi Jon...

      I think the answer is, "it depends." If you can locate a photo of the actual airplane you are building, then your problems as to where to locate the antennas will be solved. Otherwise, you may be left to your own artistic license. Some of the L-749s were fitted with cargo pods mounted underneath the fuselage, which would mean the antenna would be on top. Pictures I have seen rig the HF antennae on top from a mast at the front running to the center and starboard stabilizer. I have also seen the antenna run along the bottom of the fuselage (without the pod)...so, it depends.

      As for what to use as a mast...I finished an L-1049H in 1/72 scale last year and all the masts came off during assembly and prep. I Constructed a mast using two pieces of thin styrene cemented together, then made a small indention on the top of the fuselage, then cemented the mast into the detent using Zap Gap, and it has held quite nicely. I wouldn't worry too much about the tension of the rigging...if the mast fails under tension, then its simply too tight. On the real aircraft, the rigging actually sags a little anyway and is quite loose to the touch.

      Looking forward to seeing your work!

      https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235040218-building-a-heller-172-connie/

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      Jennings


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      Post #72666, posted on 06-11-2019 GMT-5 hours    
      Are you talking about the wires strung between the small masts on the belly? If so, I'd use hypodermic needles for the masts, then run some invisible thread all the way down through them on each end and anchor with super glue.

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      Challenger350Pilot


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      Post #72667, posted on 06-11-2019 GMT-5 hours    
      Quote
      I'd use hypodermic needles for the masts, then run some invisible thread all the way down through them on each end and anchor with super glue.


      This works well too. And then use a Sharpie to color the thread black.

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      Post #72670, posted on 06-11-2019 GMT-5 hours    
      For the main mast, I use a rather heavy and long sewing needle. If you can
      determine where it will be placed prior to cementing the fuselage halves, pop
      a blob of Plasticene at that spot inside the fuselage. Drill the access hole
      on top, insert needle at desired angle ensuring it hits the Plasticene. Run
      some liquid cement at the entry hole. That mast isn't going anywhere! Then,
      determine where you want to run the antenna cables. The eye of the needle
      comes in rather handily here.

      As for where to run the cables, Paul's comment about finding a photo is the way to go.

      Alan Aronoff
      CYUL

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      DanaK


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      Post #72672, posted on 06-12-2019 GMT-5 hours    
      I have used hammer-flattened brass rod, carefully shaped, and drilled for the wires, with a 1/4"-long shank for mounting. The hypodermic needle trick also works well. The needles can be bent and their internal diameters allow for the insertion of the thread. They make a sewing thread that has a grayish/brownish color which negates the need for coloring it.

      That said, some words of caution about the Heller PAA 749 Connie: PAA's four 749s did not have the kit's Jetstak cowlings, they also had cuffed, Curtiss Electric props, and probably did not have the white crown paint scheme, since they were all sold to Air France in 1950, prior to the changeover to the white crown scheme. Couple these issues with the oversized, misplaced windows on the kit, making an accurate PAA 749 Connie out-of-the-box becomes a total cluster... Sorry to poop in the punch bowl!

      -Dana

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      Jennings


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      Post #72675, posted on 06-12-2019 GMT-5 hours    
      I used to have the article from IPMS by Larry "Ivan" Potosky (whatever happened to him!?!?) on how to correct the Heller 749. It takes a ton of work.

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      Aeyb701


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      Post #72676, posted on 06-12-2019 GMT-5 hours    
      Thanks Challenger, Radioguy, Jennings and Dana.

      The syringe needle tip is a good idea, and I can source some at work, as I can some very fine monofilament suture for the wires. Pictures Iíve seen show, so far as Iíve looked, and thatís almost all images for the PAA L749 on Google, show the underside aerials, as well as the topside mast to rudder ones with no clarity enough to say if all three rudders are so strung. Thus I will go with the starboard and centre fins.

      Iíve read of some who used stretch sprue, is that also a viable option?

      Challenger your Connie build is outstanding and maybe Iíll get the courage up to try a metallized finish on the next Connie (I have two 1049ís unbuilt). I too used Fisher engines, but the so-called early type for the 049 649 and 749. They came with cuffed blades but Iíve only seen one picture of a PAA Connie with those. I fastened the engines with 5-minute epoxy sandwiched thinly between the cowling and wingside nacelles.

      As an aside I found the kit windows were too big in diameter so I glued in the kit windows, puttied and sanded them flat and drilled new smaller ones, which Iím filling post paint with white glue. Itís true about there being so many individual window arrangements so I opted to work with what was moulded, and added the navigator window behind the windscreen and below the others, using my Dewalt drill on slow speed.

      Iíll post a photo when I get the antennas strung (as opposed to ďantennaeĒ which conjures insects ha ha).

      Jon

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      Challenger350Pilot


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      Post #72681, posted on 06-12-2019 GMT-5 hours    
      Sounds GREAT! Looking forward to seeing the pics as you work!

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      Post #72682, posted on 06-12-2019 GMT-5 hours    
      Those Fisher resin bits for the Connie are amazing. Guard them with your life.
      Paul lost everything in the Paradise fire last year. The community kicked in a
      sizable amount of monetary assistance through a Go Fund Me page. I hope Paul and
      his family are getting things back together. Great guy. Excellent products.

      Alan Aronoff
      CYUL

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      TWA Brat


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      Post #72683, posted on 06-12-2019 GMT-5 hours    
      Quote
      Jennings :
      I used to have the article from IPMS by Larry "Ivan" Potosky (whatever happened to him!?!?) on how to correct the Heller 749. It takes a ton of work.


      https://www.facebook.com/ivan.potoski

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      Aeyb701


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      Post #72709, posted on 06-15-2019 GMT-5 hours    
      Well pretty much finished except for the antennas. I ordered a stretchable thin material called ďModel Kasten ď off Amazon. Saw it cited somewhere, here or Britmodeller maybe. Made in Japan I think. Using that should take care of any twistiness or sag.
      Iíd insert a photo I just took but it seems onerous and confusing.[img][/img]