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      Daedalus


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      Post #76354, posted on 07-27-2020 GMT-5 hours    
      Hello,
      I'm working on the air new zealand all blacks livery. The white leaf on black background.
      I ordered two sets of decals to double the white. Unfortunately the decals are very big and I got some wrinkles in; heat did not work as I wanted.
      This is the question: should I cover with clear before the second white decal or put it right on the first one?
      I appreciate your help
      Daedalus

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      mafra


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      Post #76355, posted on 07-27-2020 GMT-5 hours    
      Hello!
      I'd try to send down gently wrinkles and if you do this through decal masks this by base white color with airbrush and maskol then puts second one on it.Or try to remove it down with lot of water and sets it again.

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      Ken Miller


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      Post #76358, posted on 07-27-2020 GMT-5 hours    
      Ugh.....I don't have an easy answer. Only that in my experiences trying to cover up things with another coat of something else never works out/makes things better. Need to address the issue at hand the best you can before moving on to the next step. Bad primer/paint? Best fix it first before painting over. Same with decals. Don't put anything over them until you are happy with what you have. More setting solution? More heat? Hot damp wash cloth? Slice the wrinkles with an X-acto knife before adding more setting solution/heat? Fingers crossed.

      Ken

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      radioguy


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      Post #76360, posted on 07-27-2020 GMT-5 hours    
      What Ken said^^. I'll add a couple of things.

      Heat works when the decal is wet. I use it all the time. Problem is, it also imparts
      a "memory" to the subject. So, even IF you were able to somehow coax the first layer
      off the model, the re-application might still not be quite right. A decal softener would
      only serve to distort the subject. Not something you want to do. To get a perfectly
      registered "top" coat, your bottom needs to be perfect. Any wrinkles you might have
      on that base will cause the overlay to be off. Much as it may pain, I'd strip the
      bottom one off completely, and order another set.

      Good luck.

      Alan Aronoff
      CYUL

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      Daedalus


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      Post #76365, posted on 07-28-2020 GMT-5 hours    
      Thanks for all your help.
      Does decal directly on decal result in silvering? Is a clear coat required in between?
      regards

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      Ken Miller


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      Post #76367, posted on 07-28-2020 GMT-5 hours    
      Does decal directly on decal result in silvering? Is a clear coat required in between?
      regards

      I think it "depends" on the decal. If the decal is shiny/glossy then no you wouldn't need to clear coat over it before adding another decal. I've put decals over others a few times and haven't needed to. Window decals over cheatlines and silver frames over black windows are two good examples. Now if it was an old Airfix decal or one of the Revell Germany ones from the era where they looked "matte/flat" I probably would gloss it up before putting on another decal.

      With a glossy decal the less between the two decals the better so no clear coat unless absolutely necessary.

      Alan or I didn't mention it at first but there's also the thought of "is it good enough"? If you want the decals PERFECT then you should strip off the wrinkled decal and start over. If it's just one small wrinkle maybe that is OK. You need to decide. For my recently finished American Egg Plane I pretty much threw on the cheatline decals and they wrinkled. Later I came back and used more setting solution and heat to encourage them to settle down more. Far from perfect but much better than when they first went on.


      Ken

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      electraglider


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      Post #76380, posted on 07-29-2020 GMT-5 hours    
      I hate thin decals . It's like having to keep a log book with decals makers modes to remember if their are printed on one sheet of clear or separate after a long time of not using the brand. Thin colors are the worst, I get in agony over my Beguine markings on the P-51B . It's been 5 years now and I still haven't resolve to put the second set of the yellow music symbols with staff over the first set in perfect position. Can there be anything so frustrating as seeing a smudged 2nd set partially out of position each time you look at the model? And those blobs of red post war bars that make you ruin a second copy of a white star Korean War decals just to get the red bar.

      I feel for you and that black New Zealand scheme I wonder if they sprayed a clear "kill Stain " type of house wall repaint before painting the white. Or sprayed a bright silver first pattern and then the white over that to kill the black background bleed thru?

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      aro757


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      Post #76381, posted on 07-29-2020 GMT-5 hours    
      Quote
      electraglider :
      ...

      I feel for you and that black New Zealand scheme I wonder if they sprayed a clear "kill Stain " type of house wall repaint before painting the white. Or sprayed a bright silver first pattern and then the white over that to kill the black background bleed thru?



      I highly doubt it. In printing silk-screen decals, white is always the first color printed after clear, of course. You can ask for double white to ensure proper opacity for large areas.

      Regards,

      ahmed

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      Daedalus


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      Post #76390, posted on 07-30-2020 GMT-5 hours    
      I'm frustrated! I tried to fix the first layer and it got worse - even more bubbles. I think they came with the heat.





      Now I think to paint the white too. The black and gray is paint.
      But now I'm affraid that the mask for the white will ripp off the black and gray paint.
      Can you give me some help please.

      regards

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      Jennings


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      Post #76396, posted on 07-31-2020 GMT-5 hours    
      If the silver fern leaf on your decal is printed in white, itís incorrect. The fern on the Air NZ scheme is light silver grey.

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      LH707


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      Post #76398, posted on 07-31-2020 GMT-5 hours    
      Servus Deadalus! You should be ok masking and painting white over the gray and black, if those colors are a solid paint and you use low-tack tape like Tamiya. Which paints did you use?