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      AW31940K


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      Post #76583, posted on 09-10-2020 GMT-5 hours    
      I was looking at doing a white "black" plane belonging to the USAF. The only kit I have seen is the Minicraft one. Is that the same kit with all the fit issues, AKA 757? I tried building one once and got nowhere. I remember the gawdawful gaps and the wings being one higher than the other which is why Minicraft gave it main gear like a "side hill cow". One longer than the other. I think mine had a horrid twisted tail also. Have the molds been improved I hope or all new molding? Thanks---John

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      radioguy


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      Post #76584, posted on 09-10-2020 GMT-5 hours    
      AFAIK, Minicraft hasn't done anything in the airliner field for years. So a hope
      of them tweaking the original molds is just that..a hope. I believe the 757s from
      Eastern Express are also based on the MC kit. If you are looking to do an accurate
      757 in 1/144 scale, at this point there's only one game in town. The Authentic Airliners
      kit from Kurt Lehmann is a gem. Not always in stock though. Check their web site. So far,
      rumours of a 757 coming from Zvezda are just that...rumours. Maybe another member can update.

      Alan Aronoff
      CYUL

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      AW31940K


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      Post #76585, posted on 09-10-2020 GMT-5 hours    
      Thanks, I have no desire to do resin. I guess I can only hope for Zvezda or
      tackle the Minicraft kit.---John

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      scotty100368


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      Post #76588, posted on 09-11-2020 GMT-5 hours    
      BPK announced a 757 kit back in January:

      https://bigplaneskits.com/757-200-1-144/

      Scott Garard
      YSCB/CBR

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      mark m


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      Post #76589, posted on 09-11-2020 GMT-5 hours    
      Greetings,

      I am working a Minicraft 757-200 using the replacement parts from here:

      https://www.ebay.com/itm/kit-de-mejora-para-757-200-de-Minicraft-escala-1-144/283691759207?hash=item420d58b667:g:mZYAAOSwH6hdVYez

      So far I am pleased with the result. The thing that makes this unattractive to me is that when you are all said and done, you will have spent the same money on this kitbash as a Authentic Airliners 757-200 and the updated Minicraft kit still is not up to that standard. The Eastern Express 757-200 should be avoided. It is a knock off of the Minicraft kit with all the things that EE does not do particularly well regarding the fit. But if you don't like resin, then this update kit for Minicraft is the best you can do unless/until someone comes out with a new 757-200 kit.

      Good Luck,

      Mrk

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      Ken Miller


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      Post #76590, posted on 09-11-2020 GMT-5 hours    
      Can't help but comment....

      Building a nice 757 and Electra in 1/144 scale still remain a challenge :-(

      Authentic Airliners kits are beautiful but if you don't do resin you are out of luck. I like the hybrid plastic/resin 757 conversion that Mrk is working on though it certainly does seem a labor of love.

      I chuckle if anyone chooses/builds it because they don't build resin though. At first glance with all of the conversion parts there certainly is a lot of resin there.

      Doing a weight/volume comparision would be interesting. More resin or styrene in the finished kit? Measured by weight and/or volume?

      We modelers can be a funny lot.


      Ken

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      mark m


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      Post #76593, posted on 09-11-2020 GMT-5 hours    
      Hi ken,

      I agree. I love the AA 757 kits. I have 5 of them. I had a Minicraft Kit left over so I figured I would give it a try. But you are quite correct. The nose, tail cone, engines, and tail are...you guessed it...resin. So with that, there is no decent plastic kit of a 757-200/300 out there.

      Mark

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      Jennings


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      Post #76604, posted on 09-13-2020 GMT-5 hours    
      You realize that resin is simply a different kind of plastic, right? If you limit yourself to not doing resin for some arbitrary reason, you're robbing yourself of the ability to build some really amazing kits. Resin isn't any harder than injection molded styrene, it just requires some slightly different techniques.

      The Minicraft 757 is a truly awful model. I tried my level best to help Al Trendle make it better, but he was interested in price and speed, not quality.

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      Ken Miller


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      Post #76605, posted on 09-13-2020 GMT-5 hours    
      I'm no chemist but there is a definite difference between styrene and resin for models. If they were the same material we would be able to use solvent glue for resin kits which definitely isn't the case.

      Anyone out there who can explain the difference(s) between resin and styrene in chemical but simple terms?

      Minicraft 757 truly awful...yep.....

      Worst Minicraft airliner?? Could be? Lets count and compare faults.

      As Jennings mentioned he tried to help Al Trendle with the kit but he was interested in price and speed. Begs the question how could Minicraft do some abysmal airliners and then do the MD80, DC8, and C130 kits which are pretty darn good?


      Was there a "learning curve" for Minicraft in that the company learned to use different drawings and mold makers after producing some really dissapointing kits?

      Ken

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      DanaK


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      Post #76606, posted on 09-13-2020 GMT-5 hours    
      Resins are thermosetting plastics, and styrene and ABS are thermoforming plastics. An interesting note is that some 3D printers use reels of ABS plastic filament to create parts, which do allow the use of solvent cements, like the methylene chloride used in some hobby plastic cements.

      -Dana

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      Piedmont


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      Post #76609, posted on 09-14-2020 GMT-5 hours    
      I am a chemist who works mostly in the thermosetting plastics area (mainly in liquid resin 3D Printing) and both Jennings and Dana are correct. Polystyrene and the materials we call resins all fall under the category of plastics. From a chemist's point of view, both are polymers with different properties.

      Here's one way to look at the difference between the two types of plastics we use in modeling. Polystyrene is a very large chain (polymer) that is essentially tangled up with itself. When you heat polystyrene above a certain temperature, those chains untangle a bit and you get flow which is what happens in a molding machine. As a side note, styrene is not the name of the plastic but is the name of the small liquid molecule that is a building block for the plastic used in injection molded kits.

      What we call resin is a polymer that is the result of a highly cross-linked system. Think of the polymer as a ladder with the many rungs being the cross-linking system. Not very flexible, right? This will not easily deform with heat which makes this plastic not useful for injection molding.

      Hope this morning chemistry lesson help!
      Have fun modeling
      Mike

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      Ken Miller


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      Post #76613, posted on 09-14-2020 GMT-5 hours    
      Thank you Jennings, Dana, and Mike....

      How about a quick synopsis on solvent glues for polystyrene?

      Not that I use it but the old Testors tube glue was Toluene based I believe. Testors Red says it has Xylene in it. The non-toxic Testors Blue doesn't list anything in the ingredients :-)

      What solvent could it contain that melts plastic but allegedly isn't toxic? Is the orange smell just an added scent or does it act as a solvent too? Back when I was young the Testors non toxic Blue tube glue was absolutely useless. I'll admit that I've used the Testors Blue liquid cement for quite a few years with good results though I know many still say it is useless.

      Dana mentions MEK which seems to be a good go-to glue. Other good solvent glues?


      Acetone will melt plastic/resin but doesn't work as a glue.

      And why will solvent glues work for polystyrene but not polyester resin? So many questions about adhesives which are one of the basic building blocks of our hobby.

      Ken

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      Post #76614, posted on 09-14-2020 GMT-5 hours    
      I likewise used the Testors blue when young until I discovered the red stuff, which works better and smells better. I still use it for certain applications.

      When I first built a resin kit, I was concerned that the lack of something like Tamiya Extra Thin would pose problems, but I found that extra-thin CA with a mini tube applicator gives pretty similar results.

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      Post #76621, posted on 09-15-2020 GMT-5 hours    
      For styrene kits, try Tamiya Extra Thin liquid cement. It's a game changer. I resisted for a long time, and I wish I hadn't. It's great stuff.

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      Post #76627, posted on 09-16-2020 GMT-5 hours    
      Quote
      Ken Miller :
      Thank you Jennings, Dana, and Mike....

      How about a quick synopsis on solvent glues for polystyrene?

      Not that I use it but the old Testors tube glue was Toluene based I believe. Testors Red says it has Xylene in it. The non-toxic Testors Blue doesn't list anything in the ingredients :-)

      What solvent could it contain that melts plastic but allegedly isn't toxic? Is the orange smell just an added scent or does it act as a solvent too? Back when I was young the Testors non toxic Blue tube glue was absolutely useless. I'll admit that I've used the Testors Blue liquid cement for quite a few years with good results though I know many still say it is useless.

      Dana mentions MEK which seems to be a good go-to glue. Other good solvent glues?


      Acetone will melt plastic/resin but doesn't work as a glue.

      And why will solvent glues work for polystyrene but not polyester resin? So many questions about adhesives which are one of the basic



      If I recall my college chemistry correctly, itís the same molecular cross-linking that makes polyester resin a thermosetting plastic that also makes it unaffected by solvent glues. Perhaps Piedmont will chime in here to provide more info.

      Michael McMurtrey
      IPMS-USA #1746
      IPMS-Canada #1426
      Carrollton, Texas

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      Piedmont


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      Post #76631, posted on 09-17-2020 GMT-5 hours    
      "If I recall my college chemistry correctly, itís the same molecular cross-linking that makes polyester resin a thermosetting plastic that also makes it unaffected by solvent glues. Perhaps Piedmont will chime in here to provide more info."

      Michael, You definitely did your homework back in college! You are correct in that highly crosslinked systems will not respond to the typical solvent glues that we use in modeling as those bonds are too strong. The reason that the glues we use for polystyrene models works is that the glue works in a similar manner to heat and allows the polymer chains to relax while the glue (acting as a solvent) is present. The reason the two parts that you are gluing stick together so well is that the glue (solvent) partially dissolves the surface (more if you spill it! ) which allows the two surfaces to mix and then solidify when the glue dries.

      I have given more than a few papers on the chemistry of adhesion in my area of interest and it is a pretty fascinating subject. Now back to modeling....
      Mike

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      usairman737


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      Post #76639, posted on 09-18-2020 GMT-5 hours    
      You noted that "I am working a Minicraft 757-200 using the replacement parts from here:".

      Unfortunately the resin parts shown won't fix one basic problem with the Minicraft 757, that being a miss-alignment between the wings and the horizontal stabilizers. This problem won't be apparent until you try to add the wings and stabs. When looking from the aft end of the fuselage and with the wings level with respect to the ground, the root of one stabilizer will sit higher than the other. A lot higher. The only solution, short of ignoring it, is to cut and rotate the fuselage aft of the wing. That's when you discover that the Minicraft 757 fuselage isn't actually round. It has flat areas where the windows are located. Putty time!

      The photos look promising except for the aforementioned problem on the kit part. Whenever I see fuselage inserts, I worry about mold shrinkage making the insert(s) smaller than the kit fuselage.

      Good luck, and let us know how it works out.
      Gerry Cole

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      Misterblank


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      Post #76641, posted on 09-19-2020 GMT-5 hours    
      I have also found the Tamiya extra thin to be an amazing glue for models. But for large joins such as fuselage seams I stick with cyanoacrylate. Over time (even years!) regular glues will shrink and leave visible seams. I have also started to use wood glue for certain jobs, such as attaching antenna, gear, etc. with good effect.

      The Minicraft 757 is a sad story. I remember how excited I was to get the freshly released American boxing, only to feel the dread sinking in after the dry fit. Iíve been waiting years for a mainstream manufacturer to relieve the suffering but it has been in vain. Hopefully BPK will save the day, but they seem preoccupied with a silly 1/72 777-300ER.

      Best regards...Duncan